Chris has been connected with One More Wave for three years after finding the organization working for the county San Obispo and learning about the services offered to veterans. He served in the Marines for nine years beginning as Military Police and became an Embassy Guard in Sri Lanka for a year, then transferred to Armenia and later Iraq. He also served as a Field Military Police Officer in Afghanistan before leaving the Marines in 2014.
Having no surfing background except for trying it on a vacation at age 15, he took to the water and found it to be incredibly healing. He started out on a foam board and completed a three-month surfing intensive with Operation Surf where he learned to hone his skills. Surfing helps Chris clear his mind.
“When you’re out there you’re not thinking about anything else but surfing.”
Chris has three boards from One More Wave including a customized hardboard that he just received and is looking forward to taking out on the water. He wants to get the word out about surf therapy and encourages more people to give surfing a try.
“You don’t have to jump into the ocean right away,” he said. “You can get connected with the community and you can meet the participants (other veterans) and join a program and start surfing.
We thank Chris for his service to our country and look forward to seeing him catch more waves.
Story by Rachael Ruiz.